Yay for Internet!

12/8/12 Cool like a banana in a fridge

What an amazing day on the island of Zanzibar! After setting off from Machui, where we are staying, we drove to a spice farm for a spice tour. The interesting thing was that when Americans typically think of farms, there are rows of plants in organized tracts of land. But here, the spice plants were scattered around, with various people’s houses in between. We saw so many spices, it was interesting to realize how much you take them for granted without really considering where they come from. We saw cinnamon, called the queen of Zanzibar because they can use all the different pieces of the tree. We also saw vanilla, curry, henna, giner, lipstick plant, cassava, papapua, jackfruit, black pepper, and cloves. Throughout the tour the guides gave us crowns, rings, and necklaces made from palm leaves. The best part was that at the end of tour we had a fabulous lunch composed of spiced rice, cooked bananas covered in some type of curry sauce, and fish. It was truly an unbelievable to have a lunch cooked with the spices I had just seen grown throughout the farm. Then we had a desert of fruit, which was delicious. There was papaya, mango, custard apple, banana, jackfruit, passionfruit, and pineapple. I swear everything is sweeter and juicer here, and it was truly amazing. We then went to the Kwenda beach which was unbelievably pretty. We went through a resort to use their beach, but it was strange to see the contrast between the stark poverty surrounding the area and then a few minutes later see what most people would consider paradise. But the beach was so pretty and the water was so clear, everyone should definitely travel to Zanzibar if they ever have the chance! It was seriously unreal that we were swimming in the Indian Ocean!!

12/9/12

Today was more relaxing but interesting. We are staying in Machui, a small village 20 minutes out of the main city, Stonetown. However we are residing in what I guess you could call the dorms of the community college that is associated with the convent. The rooms are small and it reminds me of something that I’ve read about rooms for middle schoolers, it is hard to imagine adults living here. In the town, although there are other people staying there the villagers are not that accustomed to seeing white people, called mzungus. It is not a negative term, and you get used to everyone constantly shouting ‘mzungu’ when you walk by. The people here are so incredibly friendly, and almost everyone says hi. Although the poverty is fairly shocking, the people seem to have a pretty tight community. Culturally Tanzanians seem so nice and polite; it is a nice change from the hectic and impersonal life that can sometimes be had in America. What they don’t tell you when you apply for the program is that your cultural orientation is not a class, it is experiencing your new life in Africa. Part of this experience we had today by doing our laundry by hand. It is SO much work, it made me have a whole new appreciation for our washing machines. We put our laundry into buckets, and then filled them with water from the well (it was a hand pump where we are staying, we didn’t have to go walk to go get it or anything). Then we let it sit for a few hours, and then we came back to scrub it. No matter what I did I felt like my clothes weren’t really getting clean. Then attempting to rinse the soap out of them was practically impossible, and then we hung them on lines to dry. My clothes were so stiff the next day, I definitely am not a natural at hand washing clothes I guess. Later on today me and Gabe went for a run and it was so ridiculously hot but really fun. First we ran through the woods, which felt like we were jogging through a scene from Lost. Then we ran in town, but one of the local boys, Johnny, joined us. He was maybe fourteen, but he stayed with me for the entire run. That wasn’t all that much of a challenge because of how slow I was forced to go because of the heat, but he was only wearing flip flops. All of his friends were yelling at him and us, and it was really cute. It is hard to imagine getting used to this kind of humidity and heat. My friends know how much I sweat, and you can only imagine how bad it is here. You are just constantly sweating, putting on sunscreen and bugspray and sweating more. Running feels so good but I must have lost a liter of water, and we practically bought out the local shop of its water. Additionally, the air quality is not that great, probably partially caused by the fact that everyone burns their trash. This includes their plastic, which obviously creates a terrible smell and ominous black smoke. To be honest the infrastructure is so bad that it seems almost laughable to imagine that they would have a system for garbage, yet I would have never imagined they burned everything, especially because it is so bad for the environment and health. I guess I’m not exactly sure what the alternative would realistically be, but it seems as though there is definitely a better way to do things. However, I suppose that too is just another part of the learning experience.

1/12/12

Okay so yesterday we went to a zoo and we took a dala dala to get there. Apparently the dalas are different in Dar, but to say it was an experience was an understatement. The way I would describe them would be that they have a truck cab but the back is a little like a wagon with benches. It’s a little hard to explain, but they are hot, smelly, and uncomfortable. And they pack people into them and people hang off the sides. At one point I counted around 24 people (including babies) on ours. As someone that gets somewhat clostraphoic I had to talk myself through it but it turned out fine. A note about the driving, everyone is crazy. People fly down all the roads, but I guess the good news is that the more crowded the dala is the slower they have to go. But cars will honk to let people know they are coming to move off the street and to also alert other cars coming the opposite ways around turns. I can only image the massive amounts of accidents there must be every year, but we have to yet see anything too bad. But then we went to the zoo, which was somewhat depressing because the animals were clearly being abused and in cages that were too small. It was sad but I guess a good experience to see how other institutions are run in Tanzania.

Today we went back to the beach at Kendwa, and it was so amazing. I think I had the most fun today out of the whole time I’ve been here. I’m excited to go back to Dar, meet our families and settle in tomorrow, but it will be sad to leave all the beauty behind. However, we are planning on coming back for a weekend, hopefully on a full moon party night because apparently that is a big thing here. But it has felt like vacation so far, it will hard to transition back into classes. Anyways, next time I write I will be back in Dar, I will update you on the family situation and how the city is!

1/15/12

We are all settled in our houses at the University of Dar es Salaam! Campus is really pretty but very big. Luckily we seem pretty close to the academic buildings so hopefully the walk won’t be too bad. Our family is really nice and they have hosted many international students before, includes Mel last semester! They are very well traveled and intelligent. They told us we have running water 3 or 4 days a week, but we have had it on and off every day we’ve been here. Guaranteed we get it back right when I finished my bucket shower, which is actually not as hard as it seems. Or I am just getting used to not completely washing off the conditioner or soap. It has only been about two weeks and I seem to be getting used to a lot of things lately. The food is good, and they feed us a lot but later in the day. It’s a little hard to be on another family/cultures’ eating schedule, especially when I’m so used to doing it on my own now. I think I forgot to mention this earlier, but ugali is very popular here. It is hard to explain, but it is made of flour and water and doesn’t really taste like much but you eat it with other foods. Anyways we have had that a few times, as well as beans and mashed potatoes. The people here are really into their starches and carbs. Tonight we had barbequed beef and pork, it was really good. It is hard to explain how they bbq here, its unlike anything I’ve ever had before. We also had plantains which I love so that was awesome.

We also have a house girl, and it has been very interesting to see how the family interacts with her. She lives in a separate part of the house, and she does all the cooking and cleaning. They only refer to her as the girl, as in “the girl will do that”. It is very different from anything that I am used to in America. Today I woke everyone in the house up trying to get into the kitchen because I just wanted a piece of toast. The house is separated into two buildings, the main one and then the bedrooms and bathrooms. There are five locks in the way and after only having an access code for four months I apparently made a lot of noise trying to get out and in. My ‘Mama’ had to come help me which was pretty embarrassing. Anyways the house girl was there and I introduced myself to her and did my own dishes this morning because I felt bad just leaving them while she was trying to eat. I’m hoping that we can help me with some of my Kiswahili, and there is another house girl coming too who knows more English. Apparently my accent must be terrible because when I have tried to use the little Kiswahili I know, no one has really understood. I have five months to figure it out I guess but it is still frustrating.

Speaking of which, most people seem to like Americans, which is a different reaction than I was really expecting. When we tell everyone where we are from, many have followed with “Obama!” It has been really funny, but he is tremendously popular here. It will be interesting to see what will happen in September, and apparently Romney won the NH primary, I was sad to miss it. Also, today is Travis’s 21^st bday (WOOO!) I tried to call him but instead I got some random person, I can’t believe I made an international wrong call! Anyways, sorry I didn’t have internet on your birthday Trav, hope it was a blast! J